Journey is the Destination: Likumbi Lya Mizie- hey wait I this isn’t something everyone gets to experience

the pontoon

Ryans waiting for the pontoon face

So At the end of August Ryan, Charlie and I all went to Likumbi Lya Mizie, a traditional festival for the Luvale tribe in Zambia. It was one of those experiences where I felt so comfortable and seemed so normal until I realized that we were the only white people along with a guided group of tourists. It isn’t something that everyone gets to experience. There were masks, traditional dancing, makishi (costumed juju things running around), boys and girls completing their imitation ceremony, makishi dancing on poles in the air and mattresses in the water and eating goats blood, chiefs, the vice president, an amazingly great mix of people from throughout Zambia. It was AWESOME!

A likishi

So we arrived at the pontoon that was to ferry the car that we hitched with across the river to where the ceremony was to be held. The only problem was it could only carry 2 maybe 3 cars at once and there were many people waiting to cross. There were famous Zambian musicians, ministry personnel, and others waiting to cross (no special treatment….for the most part). The line was long so you ended up waiting for a few hours. The other option was to take these wooden dugout canoes across for K5,000 about one dollar, we decided against it because we had gotten a hitch with someone and felt bad leaving him.

some of the makishi dancing

makishi dancing

makishi

When we made it across the river we found a place to set up our tents and then headed to the fairgrounds where there were many makishi (likishi singular, makishi plural) running around. Now these creatures demand money, things, basically whatever they want from you to help pay for the different ceremonies that they are a part of. Of course being white and therefore apparently rich we were a source of much attention. They carry big sticks or machetes or other intimidating weapons around to scare you. However also being white you are given a sort of limit of the torture that you have to endure because they are trying to use this festival as a tourism plot. Needless to say by the time I left the festival, all of my small bills were gone. Anyway, that day we got to see a traditional dance performance by the makishi, experience some of Zambians most popular artists trying to promote different cell phone companies, get to dance with one of these on their stage, receive a free shirt, eat nshima chicken and cabbage all for K5,000 and be harassed by some makishi.

you can see one of the boy

The flags of all the sponseres in the sacred fairgrounds

The next day was the big event where the chief was going to come out of his palace. But it was crazy how “commercialized” everything was. There were flags of sponsors for everything many of the traditional dancers were wearing t-shirts or chitenges (the piece of cloth that they wrap around their waists) given to them by different companies or organizations. It was a little disappointing. I would have liked to see the integrity of that part kept. The vice president came to give a speech there were dancing and different ceremonies. We got to see all of the makishi. The leader of the makishi sacrificed a goat then drank some of its blood. The girls were initiated. They were wearing a piece of cloth around their waist and the rest of their body was painted with different designs. They danced proving their women hood. The boys were initiated in a similar fashion. One lakishi used its juju power (African magic) to dance high up on poles. It all was very interesting, I only wish it was easier for me to download videos so you could see some of the dancing)

That afternoon we went to the river and bathed in the river it was absolutely amazing, cleansing, refreshing and peaceful.

The next day it was time to head back home. We first wanted to see the same likishi that danced on the poles dance on a mattress that floats in the water with the African magic. So we went to the beach where that was happening, and of course this is Zambia so nothing starts on time. So we had some time to relax on the beach. While we were waiting a likishi stole one of Charlie’s shoes and ran off it which resulted in a chase by Ryan to retrieve the shoe. It was quite hilarious to watch. Then we got in a dugout canoe and got to see the likishi dancing up close and personal (I have no idea how they had the mattress to float I couldn’t see anything wrong with the mattress maybe it is African magic) and then headed home.

It was one of those experiences where I stopped and was like this is something that I would have seen in National Geographic and I am sitting here like it is no big deal…I really am in Africa and am so lucky to get to experience these things. I can’t express how grateful I am for it.